Builds
What’s on the bench at the moment?
Small jobs
- Review remaining SR box: prepared for eBay
- Replace battery in Pulsar, TBC
- Sort vintage straps
- 6821: trim stem
- 3602: trim stem, review barrel slip, service
- Fix Seiko bracelet (replace spring bars)
Build ideas
NH35
I’m missing my diver and there’s some interest in commissions. So…
- Diver with rainbow bezel
- Yachtmaster style case
- Namoki gold integrated bracelet
- Namoki Nautilus
- NH35 custom crown
- Stealth NH35
- NH35 full lume
- Black sailcloth strap with quick release
ST36 skeleton
- Sapphire case
- Skeletonised 3620 with black case
Others
- TY2809: same as Ciga Design
- New movement from Cousins
Omega 131.019 (steel)
So I rehomed this cal 601 and serviced it… but it doesn’t run for very long. Could well be the mainspring as it was the first one I’ve done by hand.
22M serial (1965), cal 601 non-runner, arrived in a case for an automatic, has some homemade case clamps.
- Buy correct NOS case for movement
- New mainspring
- Order new 30.8mm crystal
- Fit new crystal
- Ultrasonic clean of keyless works
- Trial fit brand new seconds hand (could be too shiny compared to old hands) – looks fine
- Stem doesn’t engage properly, decase and investigate – it’s the wrong crown for the case!
- Try correct stem/crown – winding very stiff, hmmm
- Trial with correct stem outside of the case – doesn’t fit
- Order new case clamps – see Omega case clamps
- Order new stem and crown (from Cousins) – stem engages nicely
- Trim stem and fit crown
- Try oiling the jewels, only achieving approx. 170° amplitude
Stems
Omega 161.009 gold-plated
This was all ready to sell but has developed a rattle when you shake it.
Really nice dress watch, if a little small. Serial 22190717 (1965), cal 552, crown very worn, can just see the Omega logo, stem not engaging, rotor a little worn.
- Service (external)
- New leather strap
- Get the back off and see what the rattle is
1975 Nino AS 2066 11.5’’’
Low amplitude, needs a service.
- Clean dial
- Ultrasonic case
- Service
Cauny small dress watch with sub-seconds
Non-runner, balance OK, stem very difficult to remove, rolled gold bracelet, broken mainspring, movement FHF 63.
- Remove from case – pop the front
- Clean dial – didn’t make much difference
- Check if it runs by turning barrel
- Order donor movement
- Replace mainspring (swap from donor)
- Service
Longines 12.92 12’’’
Hands a little fragile, no case, 27.8mm movement, 26mm dial. I found a 16-jewel version with a wobbly balance to use as a donor, so basically I’ll make one good one out of the two. Might’ve been easier to just to stick the good balance in the 16-jewel, but it seems both balances are a little wobbly. Will service and try again.
- Nice gold example
- https://www.barnebys.co.uk/blog/wwi-100-years-on-watches-from-the-trenches
- https://www.google.com/search?q=longines+ww1+trench+watch
- Image search
- https://64.media.tumblr.com/a4e51fb324cd1155f1c9ab553ac5c9d2/tumblr_nrkv81FsEE1tin58jo1_1280.jpg
Probably should be in a gold case. But on the lookout for any usable pin-set case.
15-jewel
Serial 4929243 (1930).
- Clean dial
- Remove broken stem
- Fit missing ratchet wheel – took wheel and barrel (with mainspring) from the other one
- Service
- Refit good balance
16-jewel
Serial 5107778 (1932), broken balance but otherwise movement is OK. Slightly later but has the hour wheel jewel.
- Clean dial: not very effective
- Find new case
1916 Borgel trench watch 13’’’
Marvin 362, 29.5mm; bezel ⌀ 30.2mm. Bezel measured thrice: 30.17, 30.21, 30.24. So I went for a 30.4mm crystal and it was a success.
- Order 30.4mm crystal
- Polish silver
- Replace crystal
- Order donor movement for practice/spares
- Rachet wheel is missing a tooth, still works but might replace from donor for completeness
- Pusher has come loose during cleaning – fits in OK anyway
- Service
- Repair original strap – see leather conditioner
- Grease threads on case
- Trial a new rubber strap with the metal insert
Fortis FHF ST-96 11.5’’’
Might just sell this for spares.
- Order new crystal – opening measures 30.96mm
- Review missing case screws
- Measure timing